How to Fix a Samsung Fridge Ice Maker That Passes Test Mode but Doesn’t Make Ice Normally
Issue:
Your Samsung refrigerator's ice maker passes the test mode and makes ice during testing but fails to produce ice in daily use. The ice maker has no ON/OFF flag arm.
Step-by-Step Diagnosis & Repair
✅ Step 1: Check the LED Sensor
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Remove the ice bin.
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Using your phone’s camera, look toward the auger motor wall behind the ice bin.
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Locate the LED sensor (part of the auger motor assembly).
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While pointing your phone camera at it, look for a red light from the LED.
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If you see the red light — the sensor is working.
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If no light is visible — the LED or its control board is likely faulty and needs repair or replacement.
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🧰 Step 2: Remove and Inspect the Auger Assembly
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Remove the auger assembly from the freezer cabinet.
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Unscrew the cover that protects the LED components.
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Carefully disconnect or release the wires inside the auger assembly to fully access the LED board.
🔧 Step 3: Repair the LED Assembly (if needed)
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Open the plastic housing of the LED sensor carefully.
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Inside, you’ll find a small PCB (printed circuit board).
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Inspect it for signs of water damage or corrosion.
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Locate the 220 Ohm 1W SMD resistor on the PCB.
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Test the resistor with a multimeter:
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If it's faulty, replace it.
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You can use a standard (non-SMD) 220 Ohm 1W resistor as a substitute.
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Check the continuity of PCB traces from the wires to the LED and resistor.
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Repair any broken or corroded traces.
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If traces are severely damaged, the best fix is to solder the resistor directly to the LED terminals.
🔄 Step 4: Reassemble and Test
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Put the LED board and auger assembly back together.
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Reinstall the assembly in the freezer.
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Use your phone camera again to verify that the LED is now glowing red.
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If the LED is working, your ice maker should resume normal operation.
Notes:
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The LED sensor helps detect the presence of the ice bin and is critical for triggering the ice production cycle.
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Even if the ice maker passes test mode, a malfunctioning LED assembly will prevent normal operation.
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Typical repair time: 45-60 minutes with basic tools and a soldering iron.